Monday 31 January 2011

Cock Oh Van

Serves 4.

a large chicken, or 8 or 10 pieces of thigh and leg FREE RANGE OR ORGANIC
150g pancetta or unsmoked bacon chopped
A large knob of butter - 30-50g
2 medium onions (preferably red)
a largish carrot (whole)
2 ribs of celery (sliced longways twice and then chopped small)
3 cloves of garlic, finely sliced
2 tbsps flour
2 tbsps cognac, or brandy to those of you who aren't sure what cognac is
a bottle of red wine (ballsy eg Rioja, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Shiraz, Grenache, etc)
4 or 5 small sprigs of thyme
some bay leaves
more butter - yes more
12 small onions, peeled (if this is too much of a faff, use 4 medium red ones instead of the 2 above and cut them into 1/8ths
200g small button mushrooms (fresh, not tinned)
Possibly 1/2 litre of chicken stock (at least Knorr)
Mashed potatoes to serve.

Put the chopped pancetta/bacon, in with the butter, into a thick-bottomed casserole - one of enameled cast iron would be perfect like a LE CREUSET (for the 4th or 5th time on this blog) - and cook over a medium heat. Stir the pancetta from time to time - it mustn't burn - then, when it is golden, lift it out into a bowl, leaving behind the fat in the pan. (This bit quoted from Nigel)

Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and place them in the hot fat in the pan. They should fit nicely but with a little space between them. It is the pan + bacon fat + chicken skin that will give the winning flavour.

While the chicken is colouring in the pan, peel and cut the onions into 8 pieces. Also wash the carrot and wash/chop the celery. With the chicken out, add the onions and whole carrot to the pan and cook slowly, stir a bit, until the onion is translucent and deglazed the pan. Add the garlic. Return the chicken and bacon/pancetta to the pot, stir in the flour and let it all get friendly for a minute or two, then pour in the cognac, wine and jam in the herbs. If you are lacking liquid to cover the chicken, use the stock now. Achieve a boil, then quickly turn the heat down so that the sauce slowly putters. Put a lid on but leave a gap so the liquid can reduce and intensify.

Chuck some of the butter in a small pan, add the mushrooms. Cook until golden, then add them to the chicken with a good smattering of salt and pepper. This is another robust meal that can take quite a kicking of salt and pepper. Go for it.

Check the chicken after 1 hour to see how tender it is. Not falling apart but also soft is good. It will probably take about an hour and a half I reckon. I disagree with the chefs who say do it for less time. They feel the chicken will dry out, I feel that chicken on the bone cannot be risked for under-cooking and I'd rather be safe than sorry. Especially if my sister attempts this. If the chicken pieces are big, they will need longer, smaller pieces shorter. Simple enough.

You should have your potatoes peeled, chopped and on the boil NOW. Smaller cubes need 15-20 mins. You want to over cook them.

Now you can do the final bit in two ways. Whack up the heat and bubble it all down with all ingredients still in the pan. This will reduce and thicken and even become more glossy. Add some butter to the sauce to thicken and achieve even glossier status. Either way when done, remove the carrot and thyme if you can find it. Bay leaves too.

The other way is to turn off the heat, and ladle 8 spoonfuls into a small pan and reduce this down. This can thicken much quicker and the butter will melt nicer into it. However, it is more washing up, but who cares really. It is unlikely you will do the washing up if it is a success.

Mash the potatoes with butter, small amount milk or cream, a dollop of mustard and lots of salt and pepper. You want them stodgy as the juice from the chicken will thin them out. So to stop soupy stuff, keep them thick. Harder to mash but worth the trouble.

Eat and be very, very happy. It tastes champion. Word is born.

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